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Posts: 2
Reply with quote  #1 
Can anyone tell me how to read the serial number on a yellow dot?

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Posts: 1,774
Reply with quote  #2 
If you tell us the serial number, it'll be easier to explain it. For instance, go to the subject "Hammer ball find" in the General bowling discussion section -- I explain a Hammer serial number there, but all aren't the same -- but could give an idea.


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Posts: 77
Reply with quote  #3 
Though serial number information from back then is sketchy. On the old Columbia Balls the first digit typically indicated the last number of the year it was made (ex. "8" would be either 1988, 98, 08). The second digit was a letter that refers to the month.

If you're wanting to know if it was a bleeder, heres some good info:

Know that the first digit in the serial number refers to the last digit of the year the ball was manufactured, the second digit was a letter that refers to the month.  In the mid-late 70s, the letter sequence started with N, so your 7Q was made in March 1977.  Bleeders made from 1990 on had second digits starting with A.  This holds true with all Columbia balls made in San Antonio until the manufacturing facility was shut down last year.

Many of the balls made that year that really bled were manufactured from March through December.  The Ps, Qs, Rs, Ss, Ts, (March through June) and the Xs and Ys (October and November) were probably the best made since the outside temperature was moderate and the balls were able to cure naturally.  The balls manufactured in the extreme months July, August, September and December, January and February were probably undercured (due to cooler weather) or overcured (due to the extreme Texas heat) probably because the balls sat in warehouses with limited climate control.  And that's provided they made balls with that same plastic material.  There were batches that were made with the same formula as the white dots probably because of curing issues.  Historically, bleeders were as brittle as crystal and cracked much easier than the resin balls made in the past 10 to 15 years.

The bleeders that were made during and after 1979 especially were stored in more climate controlled conditions because these balls were REAL good. But for some reason, the bleeders made after that were just not the same.  Most of the Yellow Dots made from 1976 and 1979 did not bleed, probably due to the formula being petroleum based, which was the same period of time as the oil crisis, so the formula used was probably the white dot formula. There were batches of bleeders made during that time, but they were in limited supply and most likely made for bowlers on the PBA Tour.

Rin, Pyōh, Tōh, Sha, Kai, Jin, Retsu, Zai, Zen.........Kō

Posts: 2
Reply with quote  #4 
I have an old yellow dot im trying to find more about. here is a picture of the sn. Any hints would be amazing. Thanks everyone! columbia300.jpg 

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Reply with quote  #5 
It is probably a 1981 vintage. 1 is lkely 1981, T means it came later in the year

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Reply with quote  #6 
Hey thank you! i was hoping to learn anything i could about it... might get it surfaced and give it a toss just to see, even if it is drilled lefty right now.
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